Neovvl

The Smarter Power
Welcome      Installation
Now basically your budget will make the choice on what path you take doing your install. My install was far from cheap but it's also a far from average install!
 
If you interested in any parts I used in the swap simple post into he FS section on the forum or PM me!
 
Tools, devices and items needed:
All of these items aren’t needed but they certainly helped in my install.
1/2" socket set (32mm)
1/4" socket set (for those tight areas
Pry bar and pipe or rattle gun for driveshaft nuts
Spanner set (opened and ring)
Breaker bar  
Torque wrench up to 100ft lbs (flywheel)
Plier’s pointy and wide head
Screw driver set
Side cutters
Cable ties (most useful item easy to tie stuff out of the road, hold items and secure loom)
Axle stands
2 floor jacks
Chocks for the wheels
Engine crane/fork lift 
Liquid gasket
WD40 (or similar penetrating spray
Can of rubber magic
Power steering, Gearbox, Motor and coolant for fluids
Razor blade for gasket removal
Wire brush or drill head for further removal
Site work lights (I had 5 150W flood lights really lit up every corner of the engine bay)
Lead light if you don't want to become visually impaired from the flood lights :wink:
Hack saw/ die grinder
Soldering iron
Solder
Heat shrink in 3mm and 5mm sizes
Twin core wire 1M
Triple core wire 1M
Snatch strap or chain for engine removal (strap is easier on the motor)
Top and bottom radiator hoses
Thermostat
Water pump/Power steering belt
Alternator/AC belt
Header hose 3/4" 1M
Vacuum hose 1/8"
Builders plastic
Tags
Rubber bands
Lunch bags
Permanent texter
Engine removal
 
Ok in simplest form the engine and gearbox are held in by 4 mounts (front, rear and both sides) the loom is also attached to the motor and so are some vacuum hoses basically remove every thing away from the motor except the 4 months then remove the mounts and the motor will drop out very simple!
 
Here's the more detailed form to stop plenty of stuff ups if you just read the simple form
 
Ok depending on what you want to do you need to plan your swap, Remember the car won't be able to just be pushed around any more after the motors out. Set the car up in a strategic spot out of the road, ask yourself will it be in the road in double your expect conversion time cause I can almost bet that it will still be there unless you live next-door to a universal parts warehouse :lol:
 
Any cleaning of the engine bay will need to be done when the motors out but possibly drain your fluids off the concrete i.e. coolant, oil gear box oil and PS fluid. This will save minor spills and making the people that own the concrete quiet angry.
 
After some good planing you should almost be right to get stuck into it!
 
- First things first Battery and bonnet.
-Jack the car up at the front and put your axle stands in a strong spot out of the road also I chose just inside the door seals at the front of the car
-Give the car a slight rock and check the stability of your setup!
- Start to get some working area by removing the 4 splash guards passenger and drivers wheel arch splash guards and the under radiator. Splash guards 10mm is the lucky socket
-Remove front wheels
-Remove strut bolts and get the drive shaft out of the hub. (This is a good time to replace the wheel bearings if you car has done over 120kkms)
 So you also then need to remove the tie rod, lower ball join to the control arm the take the whole assembly away for the bearing swap.
-Remove you intake.
Now start removing plugs and wiring:
-3 on alternator
-1 to AC
-3 to drivers fuse box
-1 to each temp sensor
-2 to ficd valve
-Oil press sensor
-Knock sensor
-Emission valve
-Tps
-2 to starter motor
-3 to gear box
-AFM
-02
-2 to dizzy
-Ground to chassis
-Ground to intake Manifold
-Ground to gear box
-Ground to thermo stat
(Should be all of them)
Mechanical
-Drain gearbox oil if not already done
-Remove 3 10mm bolts holding drivers drive shaft in place and simple pull the drive shaft out. (Wrap in a cloth and store)
- Passenger side is tricker as a circlip hold it in place. Id suggest prying it out with a screw driver placing it near where the shaft enter the gear box and get a help to pull the shaft also. (Also wrap and store)
- You should be getting close to having the motor gear box only held in by the 4 mounts how about have a check and see what you can pick up!
-Yes there should still be you power steering you can clamp the low pressure hose to hold the fluid or drain it up to you, there is also a high pressure hose at the bottom of the pump 15/16ths is the lucky socket this can be done up quiet tight (be ready for oil to fall!)
-Also there are heater hoses! Knows the time to drain the coolant if you haven’t and remover the two heater hoses!
 
-Getting there now!
 
Theory about removal so you can choose your path!
 
-Motor and gear box will both fit out the bottom of the car together (car needs to be high)
 
-Gearbox out bottom, motor out top (easy to handle with light tools and an engine crane)
 
As I didn't have a hoist I chose option 2 continue...
 
-Ok let separate that gear box start by removing the start motor bolts the top bell housing bolts under the TB (need someone to hold it)
-Remove the backward bell housing bolts on the cross member side)
-Crack the rest of the normal bell housing bolt facing into the motor should be 5or6.
-Get under car and remove shifter linkages and stabilizer bar
-Check out the rear mount while you there ah ha there are 4 bolts facing back into the box 1's hidden in the bracket!
-Get a small jack under the motor or we used a forklift to hold the weight!
-Remove the cross member4(bolts) the torque strap and its bracket to stop it taking of the radiator fans on removal and the rear mount and its bracket
-Remove the bell housing bolts bar one
-Crack box mount bolts
-Get a mate under the car ready to hold gear box, quickly remove the box mount bolts and the one bell housing bolt left, jiggle the box away from the motor to get the input shaft out. Person on the bottom will bench press the box down onto there chest (the fu(ker is about 45-50kgs)]
-Take box off them and sit aside (watch the plastic plugs and sensors also!!)
-Now the box is gone if you had the crane holding the motor or a forklift simply remove the drivers mount bolt and get the old POS motor out of there. (Take it slow and check clearances)
-Put that motor on a car tyre and your right
-Check the engine bay for problem like the Power steering boots and any major leaks.
-Cleaning time use about 6-10 cans of degreaser on the engine bay basically get two cans soak if and hose off, use a lone haired brush to help the grime removal. Repeat until it’s a mirror!
-This is where the builder plastic came in handee a big sheet under the car, elevate the side a bit to channel the water out of the shed and bingo bango clean shed and no wet oily floor!!
-Let it dry and inspect the bay again
 
That’s about it for the first stage sit back have a couple of drinks of choice.
Next stage swapping parts/comparing
 
Ok this stage is more free depending on what you want to do. I decided to go a simple route and use the de dizzy and the VE belt driven accessories. The ones off my DE had a hard life and compared to the VE they looked much older.
 
You can swap the PS and alt if you want.
 
The AC was left in the engine bay so I didn’t have to regas it and it bolted up perfectly to the ve bracket!
 
The dizzy needs modification to the bottom leg when it fouls a cam bolt. Pictures will show what was done. make sure when you install it isn't 180'd you need the #1 Cyl at TDC crank pulley at 15 degrees and the rotor conductor should be around 4-5 o’clock on the dizzy! After you take the cap off.
 
If it is at 10 or 11 o’clock remove dizzy crank motor 1 revolution back to tdc and insert dizzy! Crank 1 more revolution and you should be back at tdc of cyl#1 and the dizzy should be in the correct spot
 
I would swap the o-ring after you do this, $10 part at Nissan don't be tight.
 
Also look at swapping the water pump if you can find or source one. I filled the block up with coolant to check it wasn't leaking and checked for movement and just used the one the came with the motor as it was in good condition. If you intend on revving over 8K often I would also look at a N1 water pump or a Gspec underdrive pulley to stop cavitation.
 
Swap the drivers side mount bracket on the motor also! You will notice that the mount bracket doesn’t line up.
 
Check your motor has a flywheel inspection plate also, otherwise use the de one
 
Pull off the flex plate and install your flywheel and clutch making sure the pressure plate and flywheel surface are grime free. Cross torque the bolts also!
 
But basically sit the motors side by side and compare its common sense. Get a second person to check also sometimes they will spot or pick something up you over looked.
 
Swap over the DE temps senders!
Looming
 
Once again depending on what loom you used depends on the plugs! I had the loom snugly fitted under the IM and I didn’t need to extend much at all. The only extension was the iacv plug(purple) which needed to be swapped to use the VE plug anyway. Everything else works!
 
Take off the manifold brackets to make everything fits snug and also put in you starter while the brackets are off!
 
Tps plug goes to the top plug on the VE TB, the bottom one is spare!
 
With joining wires make sure you use heat shrink to insulate the join properly and use good quality crimps! If you are using solder make sure that part of the loom stays straight soldered wires are more brittle.
 
While the loom was out I took the chance to make it blue!
 
Any queries guys make a thread in the forum.
Installing
 
Ok pretty much the reverse procedure of removal to save hassles install the belts while the motor is out, plug up the loom and check the tension on every bolt around the motor making sure there not loose! Some can be very hard to get to when there in the car! What takes 10 minutes while the motors out can take a couple of hours when the motors in!
 
Lower the motor in slowly, it also helps to tie any thing like the throttle cable, PS line to the wipers to keep them out of the way!
 
Whack the driver’s side bolt in first double check everything is in place then:
-Fit gear box
-Install the rest of the mounts
-Connect lines
 
It is a good idea to get new top and bottom radiator hoses also which cost $50-70 but these aren’t to hard to swap after the motor is in.
 
Good idea to remove the lower oil pan and reseal it if you didn't do this earlier.
 
After the motor is in get you fluids sorted! Let the motor sit for a while so you can inspect for leaks.
 
When you are almost completed remove the coil plug on the dizzy and cold crank the motor this moves the fluids around and you can recheck levels!
 
If you’re happy with everything so far you should be sweet to start her up!